They say that the most valuable knowledge and skills are acquired by one's own way, and bad experiences are valued more than positive ones. This is probably why many, achieving mastery in this or that business, are not afraid to fill themselves with bumps. However, a reasonable person does not neglect someone else's experience, especially when there is someone to learn from.
It is spring now, sowing and planting work is in full swing, and there is no time to rummage through reference books, so we offer you the experience of professionals and well-established amateur flower growers. From our article you will learn how to properly plant sprouted rhizomes of achimenes.
Good afternoon, dear subscribers and guests of our site. Today we will talk about how to plant achimenes rhizomes. Now is spring, a hot season, and time is sorely lacking. And, nevertheless, sowing and planting is now a priority. My rhizomes of achimenes have already sprouted long, although it was not at all necessary to wait. Although you don't need to be afraid of long statures either.
Many, to whom I sent the Ahimenes this spring, did not know what to do with them, and asked if they needed to be soaked before planting. Therefore, I will tell you in a nutshell how I plant them.
Some plant rhizomes immediately in large pots, but I prefer small containers - one-hundred-gram cups, because now I have a lot of seedlings of all kinds of flowers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and other plants, and for all this it is unrealistic to find a suitable place in the apartment. Therefore, until the seedlings left for the dacha, I do all the sowing and planting in small containers. Over time, I will transfer the plants to a large bowl.
Ahimenes need a very light substrate, which includes peat, perlite, vermiculite. To compile such a substrate, you can buy a universal soil, and it is not necessary to look for a soil mixture for Gesneriaceae or for violets. The main thing is that the substrate is very loose. You just have to add perlite and vermiculite to it and mix well.
I fill the cups with a damp substrate, make a depression in the center with my finger, place the rhizome vertically in it with the sprout upward and sprinkle it with the substrate. That's the whole landing. Do not forget to write the name of the variety on the glass. Some people sign the crops with varnish markers, which is convenient in conditions of high humidity or in the sun. If the seedlings are kept in the house, then a CD marker will do.
I placed the first rhizome vertically in the substrate, because it had a long sprout. The second rhizome, with a small sprout, I will plant differently. So I make a hole for this rhizomka, lay it horizontally and sprinkle it with a substrate. You can deepen it a little deeper. Such a long rhizome could be planted in a pot, but I really have little space. Now I place a stick with the name of the variety in the glass. After a while, the rhizomes will grow, build up the root system, and then it will be possible to carefully transfer them into a large container.
The pots can be used for mass planting. For example, if you have several small rhizomes, you can plant them in one large container. The number of rhizomes depends on the size of the pot. But if the plant actively grows, there will be little space for it even in a large pot, so planting several rhizomes in one container can be considered only as a temporary option.
Rhizomes are placed horizontally or vertically in a pot so that later it would be convenient to transfer them to another container, that is, the sprouts should look in different directions. Then the rhizomes are lightly sprinkled with a substrate, but even if the top layer of the soil is too thick, the rhizome will still be able to germinate.
The prerequisites for the successful growth of achimenes are watering, warmth and good lighting. It is necessary to moisten the substrate moderately: the rhizomes have not yet grown either roots or leaves, so abundant watering is not needed. After moistening the substrate after planting, place the cups in a bright place. In the light, white sprouts will turn green with riza.
About two weeks ago I planted achimenes and now I will show how my plantings look like. The rhizomes were planted in a universal soil without perlite and vermiculite, which at that time I did not have. And this had a negative effect: firstly, the soil dries up greatly, and secondly, the rhizome grows in such a substrate worse. Still, vermiculite and perlite are important, in any case, they retain moisture.
I also planted several rhizomes in one pot, and they all came up well. It would be possible to pince them already. As you can see, each variety emerges and develops in its own way. The leaves of the varieties differ both in shape and in the presence or absence of pubescence. Many Achimenes are just sprouting, so there is little greenery, and there are rhizomes that have not yet woken up, but this is perhaps for the best: by the time they wake up, I will have time to plant everything.
I hope my experience will be useful to you. I wish you all good luck and beauty around.
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This orchid is included in the Oncidium group and belongs to the Orchid family. In total, there are about 30 species of orchids of this genus in nature. It belongs to the sympodial type of orchids. If anyone does not know, these are orchids in which new growths, leaf rosettes, are formed on a common rhizome - a rhizome, forming a kind of bush. In structure, shape of leaves and pseudobulb, it is similar to miltonia, oncidium, cambria - an artificial orchid, which is also based on brassia.
The spider orchid is considered a medium-sized plant with dense lanceolate leaves. The height of the bush ranges from 30 to 60 centimeters. The leaves form a dense fan-shaped rosette. The peduncle of the brassia is curved and can have different lengths - from 15 to 50 centimeters. Pseudobulbs are oval or pear-like. But the most interesting are the brassia flowers. In color, they can be yellow, yellow-green in color with brown or dark cherry spots. Sometimes these spots cover the sepals so tightly that they already become the background, and the spots turn yellow. The length of the brassia sepal often reaches 15 centimeters in length.
This orchid is considered one of the easiest and most undemanding to care for. Brassia is often recommended for novice growers who want to start growing orchids. The most common type of commercially available is considered Brassia warty... It's hard to say with certainty what this is connected with. But apparently with the fact that this is almost the most unpretentious type of this orchid. And its flowering is long. It is believed that brassia can bloom almost all year round. This is not entirely correct. The flowering period is up to two months, but this flowering is repeated several times a year, excluding winter. So the idea of its continuous flowering is being created.
A distinctive feature of brassia is the vanilla aroma exuded by the flowers. True, many different hybrids have already been bred on the basis of this orchid. So the smell of flowers may differ.
Room temperature is quite suitable for your flower: during the day - 20-26, at night 15-20 degrees for the summer period. In the autumn-winter period, it is recommended to lower the temperature of the content. Be sure to make sure that the night temperature all year round is 4-5 degrees lower than the daytime - this is a prerequisite for quality care for most types of orchids. It should be noted that the orchid does not tolerate temperatures above 27 degrees. At a room temperature of about 33 degrees, there is a risk of complete loss of the plant - the roots stop absorbing moisture.
Dendrobiums are light lovers. They feel great on east, south-east and south-west windows. In autumn and winter, in poorly lit rooms, you will need additional artificial light sources for the Dendrobium orchid.
It is very easy to determine whether a given light mode is suitable for your flower: if the leaves are green, everything is in order, if light green, there is too much light. With a lack of light, dark green or even yellow leaves can be observed.
In its natural environment, Dendrobium exists in conditions of high humidity (55-60%). Spray the flower periodically with water, put moistened expanded clay or a little damp sphagnum moss in a flowerpot in a pan.
In the spring and summer, try to water your Dendrobium every 3-4 days. In autumn, this should be done less often, about once a week, in winter - even less often - once a month. Allow the substrate to dry completely between waterings. When watering, try not to let water droplets get on the young plant bulbs.
During the growing period, that is, mainly from April to October, feed the plant 2-3 times a month. Fertilizer can be added to the drive when watering.
Once every 2-3 years in the spring, after flowering, transplant your Dendrobium, if there is no particular need for frequent transplantation.
As a substrate, you can use a special soil that can be found in any flower shop, or you can make the soil yourself. We talk about this in detail in one of our articles. Dendrobium's roots are rather fragile, so be careful and careful when transplanting.
For 2-3 weeks, from January to April, your Dendrobium, with proper care, will delight you every year with its lovely, fragrant flowers. Stimulates the flowering process in case of delay, phosphorus fertilization.
Additional information about this species:
Transshipment of young bananas is done 2 times a year, increasing the volume of the pot slightly, a small plant cannot be immediately planted in a large pot.
After transplanting, the plant is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, which disinfects the soil and is a growth stimulant. Potassium permanganate is used only at night or when there is no direct sunlight.
Water abundantly so that the water passes through the drainage holes. Then they do not touch the banana for 1 or 2 weeks, loosen the soil so that the roots breathe, then the plant will take root better.
Cattleyas naturally grow in the humid jungle of the Amazon, inhabiting the branches and trunks of tropical trees. These are epiphytic plants with creeping rhizomes, on which pseudobulbs are densely placed one after another. The leaves of these bright representatives are leathery and thickened. Flowers can be light strokes, blotch or solid.
How to care for an orchid at home correctly?
One of the most important conditions for a gorgeous flowering is the presence of direct sunlight in the morning or in the evening. On the northern side, the epiphyte is unlikely to bloom. On hot days of summer at noon, it is advisable for young people to make shading out of paper or tulle. Ideal for growing are windows facing southwest or southeast. The plant will immediately react to an excess or lack of light. If there is enough natural light, then the leaves will have a rich green color, and the shoots will acquire the proper elasticity. If the color of the leaf plates becomes dark, then your favorite lighting is clearly not enough. Excessive bright sunlight can cause burns, and this should not be allowed.
It is required to periodically dry the substrate and limit watering on cloudy days. Experienced growers cover the soil mixture with moss on top, stepping back a couple of centimeters from the rhizome. It should be taken into account that the same specimen, but in different periods of growth, requires a certain amount of moisture. If the orchid is actively growing at home, then it needs more moisture. When the air temperature rises on hot days, then the evaporation of liquid from the substrate and sheet plastic is more active.
Therefore, it is so important to take into account all of the above factors, including the room temperature, the level of illumination and humidity, the age of the epiphyte.
It is more convenient to water by immersing the pot in a container of water for 10-15 minutes
It is important to ensure that the liquid does not get into the place of development of the peduncle, otherwise it will rot. In the open air they water more often, if the weather is cloudy outside, then the moisture is reduced to a minimum
Stagnation of water must not be allowed. Ideally, if the substrate is completely dry a few days before watering. If it is in a wet state for more than 5 days, then this will adversely affect the root system.
During the period of active growth, the plants are fed once every 1-2 weeks, after having shed the substrate well. The principle is as follows: the orchid grows - we actively fertilize, rests - we do not use feeding. Before the formation of a new pseudobulb (up to 3 cm), the substrate is poorly moistened, no fertilizers are applied. As soon as the leaf reaches the required size, the amount of moisture is reduced again to stimulate the formation of the next flower bud. Foliar dressing is appropriate for orchids.
Those varieties that have bloomed in autumn will rest until spring. Persons blooming in late winter and spring months rest after the pseudobulb ripens in autumn. During the dormant period, feeding is not applied, and watering is minimized. You can limit yourself to installing a pallet with water and expanded clay. If the daytime temperature drops to + 5 ° C, then the plant is transferred from the balcony to the room.
Cattleya care video.
Cattleya care at home is loved and appreciated; it can be planted in baskets or pots with the required number of holes for regular ventilation of the root system. The size of the container should be consistent with the expected biennial growth. The best period for transplanting is spring, before root formation on a young bulb.
It is necessary to transplant into a new container so that the bulb is located at the wall of the container. It is recommended to lay down a large bark, on top - a medium fraction. After planting, the orchid is securely fixed in the pot so that it holds tight. The planted cattleya is not watered for several days; you can only spray water around the flower pot and moss the moss a little.
Cattleya and Wanda orchid are considered the most sophisticated; they always take pride of place in the collections of famous flower growers.
Most often, reproduction is carried out by division. This method is used in the case of acidification of the substrate, if the plant has significantly outgrown. A favorable period for division is considered when the sprouts have reached 5-10 cm, and roots have begun to form in them. Delenka should have several pseudobulbs. It is not recommended to deepen the roots when planting. In the future, daily spraying of young roots is sufficient.
Due to the presence of leathery leaves, these epiphytes are rarely damaged by pests. Of the diseases, the concern is caused by rot, which is formed as a result of violation of the conditions of detention. If the care was initially organized correctly, then there will be no difficulties.
Kaleria - when you pronounce this name, it seems that it rolls on your tongue. It has been growing for me for many years and I cannot get enough of it, you can admire it all day. Kaleria is not too whimsical, but he loves a sunny windowsill and absolutely cannot stand drafts. But it grows and blooms, almost continuously. And what beautiful flowers she has! The shape of the flower resembles a bell with an unusual mottled red coloring. And this beautiful flower multiplies very simply - after flowering, you need to cut off the top and put it in water. And after the appearance of the first roots - feel free to plant in a pot with earth. I always take ordinary garden soil, all my indoor plants grow and bloom just wonderfully in it. Watering the kaleria should be very careful, trying to prevent water from getting on the leaves, from this they rot. If you follow such simple rules, then this beauty will bring you many pleasant minutes and will cheer you up.
Coleria must be formed from a small cutting. As soon as a process of 5 centimeters appears, we begin to pinch. It will branch out and form into a bush. This will delay flowering a little.
She should rest in a cool, dark place in winter, I put it in a black bag and put it under the balcony door, in January-February I take it out and very carefully so as not to pour it over or ruin it, I start watering.
The lighting is sunny, watering is abundant, does not tolerate spraying, pruning is not required, propagation by apical cuttings or dividing the root, feeding from spring to autumn after 2–4 weeks. Good luck! The flower is gorgeous, but harmful.
Kaleria is perfect for growing at home. She does not need frequent watering, any special conditions of detention, lighting, humidity. And beautiful flowers delight the owners for quite a long time.
You need to water the plant by immersing the pot in water, as the liquid harms the orchid leaves. The container should be held in water for 15 minutes, then raised and allowed to pour out the excess. The water should be warm, not colder than + 18 ° C.
Regardless of the season, a warm shower is required twice a month. As a top dressing, you can use nitrogen, potash and phosphorus fertilizers.
The plant is demanding on the substrate, with poor soil selection, it grows slowly or rots at the roots. After the purchase, the zygopetalum needs to be transplanted into a more suitable soil.
An earth mixture for a flower should consist of the following components in a ratio of 2: 3: 3: 2:
If we take a 1 liter pot as the basis for the calculation, to fill it you will need 200 ml of large bark, 300 ml of peat and medium fraction bark, 200 ml of moss.
The bark can be used not only pine, but also any other coniferous trees (larch, spruce, cedar).
Since this Orchid rots easily at the roots, it is necessary to remove excess moisture. Charcoal is suitable for this. It needs to be added to the bottom layer of the soil. Instead of the specified soil mixture, you can use ready-made soil for orchid plants.
When planting, you do not need to dig the flower deeply into the ground, the pseudobulbs should remain on the surface. They easily rot when in the ground. It is recommended to use a transparent pot to monitor the condition of the roots.
The transplant should be carried out no more than once a year, otherwise the plant will wither. A new container will be needed when 3-5 new shoots appear or the root system becomes cramped. If a peduncle has begun to form, you should wait until the end of the flowering period.
Zygopetalum bloom lasts from 2 to 3 months. Sometimes inflorescences are not formed: this is due to poor housing conditions or the weakness of the plant. The peduncle appears on new shoots when they grow to about half. They have not yet formed a pseudobulb.
When the petals of the inflorescence fall off or dry out, it is necessary to cut the peduncle. From this moment, a period of rest begins. At this time, the plant is recovering, and it is necessary to provide it with the right conditions. Reduce watering, periodically spray the topsoil with warm water. Move the pot to a cooler room, with air heating within + 13 ... + 18 ° C. The average daily temperature difference should be between +4 and +5 ° C. When the flower sprouts new growth, you can return it to its previous conditions of detention.
If a ground tuber has already formed at the base of the new sprouts, you should not expect flowering this year.
Zygopetalum reproduces by division. It is enough to divide the rhizome and plant the resulting parts in different containers. The exact algorithm of actions:
Seed propagation is practiced only in an industrial environment. At home, it is too difficult to achieve correct germination of seeds.